In the Turkish lexicon, “Dondurma” directly translates to “freezing,” a fitting moniker for Turkey’s cherished ice cream that has danced its way into the hearts of many. Known in Mandarin as “咚哆玛,” a whimsical onomatopoeia mimicking the sound of the creamy concoction being rhythmically struck during its creation, Dondurma is not your average frozen treat.
The Taffy of Ice Creams
Dondurma boasts a chewy texture that sets it apart from its creamier cousins. If one were to draw parallels in the confectionery world, it would be akin to comparing taffy with soft caramel. Its robust consistency defies the ordinary spoon, making a knife and fork the preferred instruments for indulgence. This elegant mode of consumption adds to the distinctive charm of Turkish ice cream.
For most, the mention of Turkish ice cream conjures images of viral videos, where vendors engage in playful, acrobatic exchanges with eager customers. The vendor, with a smile, teases by presenting a cone only to whisk it away with a metal rod in the blink of an eye. As the customer processes their surprise, the vendor performs a swift sleight of hand, topping the cone with a generous dollop of Dondurma before presenting it again. This playful “tug of war” has contributed to the ice cream’s fame, drawing curious travelers from around the world to experience the “flying ice cream.”
The Secret Behind the Stretch
The secret to Dondurma’s obedient texture, even under the sweltering summer sun, lies in its simple yet unique ingredients: sheep’s milk, sugar, salep (orchid tuber flour), and mastic. Sheep’s milk provides a rich creaminess and inherent “stickiness,” and it’s the exclusive use of pure sheep’s milk that underscores Dondurma’s signature feature.
Salep, the secret weapon of Dondurma, is a flour made from the tubers of wild orchids, endowing the ice cream with a distinctive flavor and the coveted “stretchiness.” These unique orchids primarily grow in Turkey and Iran. Due to its magical thickening properties, salep is highly sought after in Turkish markets, leading to concerns over the overharvesting of wild orchids. To protect this precious plant, the Turkish government has prohibited its export, making the authentic Dondurma experience something best savored on Turkish soil.
The origins of Dondurma are shrouded in tales and anecdotes. One popular story tells of an Ottoman merchant who sold an orchid-flavored beverage made from salep and milk. One day, he buried the leftover drink in the snow to prevent spoilage. Upon retrieving it the next day, he found the beverage had thickened remarkably. Further experimentation revealed that adding milk and sugar to the orchid drink significantly increased its viscosity, allowing it to be stretched like glue. Thus, the delectable Turkish ice cream “Dondurma” was born.
The modern method of crafting Dondurma involves gently heating sweetened sheep’s milk before incorporating salep. This mixture is then hand-stirred with a long metal rod until the desired level of thickness is achieved. Allowed to cool at room temperature before being frozen, this technique ensures Dondurma’s silky texture and memorable elasticity, a treat that is as delightful to play with as it is to eat.
